Mangiare Bene: Osteria Al Guerriero

Al Guerriero (The Warrior)

This weekend we spent the day in a beautiful hill town called Arqua Petrarca. I will post more about this town because it is absolutely stunning and one of the jewels of the Colli Euganei (Euganean Hills). Our main objective was to go to Frantoio Colli del Poeta, a local olive mill, to get some freshly pressed olive oil. If you've never had freshly pressed olive oil, you are missing out - there's nothing better! Drizzle it over some toasted bread, sprinkle with salt and enjoy. If you find yourself in Italy around November, look for local olive presses - they usually give tours and tastings. It's something not to be missed.

Anyway, after we did our tour and bought our bottle(s) it was lunch time.  I had read about this little osteria on the web and decided we should stop and eat.  Osteria Al Guerriero is a tiny place right off of the main square of Arqua Petrarca and looks exactly like you would expect it to. A crazy old stone building, beautiful wood ceilings, fireplace in the back, clean white walls, glass and brass gleaming, holding about 8 tables total. The owner and wait staff are extremely friendly and though they don't speak much English are happy to give you suggestions about the menu and/or wine selections. I can't stress enough how pleasant and nice the people were. They are so welcoming and make you feel right at home.

Osteria Al Guerriero entrance

We were lucky and got there at the right time because when we left, people were waiting for tables (did I tell you IT'S SMALL!). The menu is written on a chalkboard outside the door as it changes frequently. It is a small  space and serves typical Veneto cuisine - some of which I personally won't eat, such as horse (cavallo) and donkey (musso). We decided to have an antipasto course and a primi which was:

Antipasto - slice of a zucchini frittata, slice of a torta salata (kind of like a quiche) with veggies in it, some ribbons of zucchini which were slightly pickled, and a caponata. All super delicious and the caponata didn't have bell peppers in it (most of them do, and I hate bell peppers) so I was happy - all served with a basket of bread.

Just inside the door

Primi - I had a bowl of mushroom soup which was really good (though needed a touch more salt) with big chunks of wild mushrooms and potatoes, and a good amount of parmesan cheese/crostini. S. had the house specialty, an onion lasagna - you should totally try that, it was hard for me just to have one bite. The onions are sliced thin and sweet, mixed with bechamel sauce and layered among thin sheets of pasta and parmesan cheese.

We decided against a meat or dessert course but I'm sure the offerings were good. It was a cozy, warm place to enjoy good food and get out of the cold wind.

Arqua Petrarca is definitely a town worth a visit. I will post more about it one day, but remember the name, you'll want to see it. And while you are there, stop in at Osteria Al Guerriero for warm Italian hospitality, good food, and a very "Italian" experience.

Name: Osteria Al Guerriero
Where: Via Jacopo d'Arqua 2
             Arqua Petrarca
Province: Padova
Phone: 0429.718376

More later...

Cultural observation - menus

There's a strange phenomenon that I have come across in Italy that I either never experienced as a visitor or took notice of. When Italians go to a bar they don't seem to need to look at a menu - they just know what they want and order. What? How do you know what you want to order? How do you know what they have to offer? Where's the menu???

This has happened to me on two occasions recently. One, S and I were out with his mom at a mall doing a bit of shopping and decided to hit up one of the bars inside for something to drink.  Within seconds of sitting down, they ask me what I am going to have. S will have a coffee, his mom a gingerino... they look at me expectantly. I don't know what I want to drink - I want to see what they offer then make a decision. Seconds tick by.... the waitress comes back a second time... looking at me expectantly... I am looking at a menu of drinks but feel pressured to respond so - I order a Shakerato (coffee/milk/chilled and shaken) - it's not really what I wanted but everyone was looking at me like I was from Mars not knowing what I wanted immediately upon sitting. lol  Whatever, I shook it off and didn't take much notice.

Fast forward to two weekends ago when S & I went back to Venice to see the rest of La Biennale offerings and as it was around noon when we arrived we stopped at a nearby bar/restaurant for a quick lunch. Same thing happened. within seconds of sitting down, waiter is there, S starts to order - they look at me expectantly. I am a total blank. I have no idea what they have to offer. How can I know what to order if I don't know what they have? So, I asked for a menu, feeling a little embarrassed that I needed to. It was very short  - basically 3 or 4 variations of sandwiches and beverages.

This time I took notice and it led to a discussion not only with my husband but also with my Italian teacher.  In my experience, this is not something that happens in the USA, unless its a place you know well and frequent often. When you sit down, menus are always offered and you enjoy your water while you decide what you want. Here, not so much. Most bars have menus if you want to see them and you should not feel embarrassed like I did by asking to see it. However, forewarned is forearmed - at least now you'll know what to expect and not feel like a idiot for not being ready to order on-the-spot. It seems the safe bet in bars is a panino (could be pressed or cold) with either prosciutto crudo/cotto or a local salami  and some mild cheese or a toast which is white bread with those same ingredients warmed up. Maybe they add some tomato or arugula in there, but that has not been my experience.

Am I the only one who has experienced this? Is this some common knowledge that I somehow missed? Ah the cultural learning curve when living in a foreign country....

More later...

PS - this weekend we're planning to go to a Christmas Market up north if the weather holds. Can't want to share!

Random Tip: Don't be scared of gas station coffee

In Italy most gas stations still have attendants that pump your gas and a great majority have bars where you can get a coffee, a panino, etc. Don't be afraid of these. In America, there is no way I would eat at most gas stations unless it was something pre-packaged out of a vending machine. But here, you can have a quick cappuccino and brioche (croissant) while filling up your car :)

If you're on the highway - Autogrill = delicious sandwiches and some pretty good last minute gift shopping. We have been known to drive to an Autogrill just to get a panino. (As do other big rest stops along the highways but I can't remember the names).  Small stations around towns may not have the panini but the coffee hits the spot!

More later...

OTBP: Terme Euganee

Did you know that for more than 2000 years, people have been visiting the Terme Euganee  to enjoy their thermal pools and spas? The Romans valued the area for its waters and would travel there for its healing benefits and relaxation. Living here, it seems the place is well-known in Italy, Germany, and Russia -  but not I think, to many others. I'm going to let you in on this well-kept (?) secret of Italy so you too can be in the know.

Here's the scoop:

Region: Veneto
Province: Padova
Main Spa Towns: Abano Terme, Montegrotto Terme, Battaglia Terme/Galzignano Terme

The area of the Terme Euganee is the largest thermal spa in Europe. Set at the base of the Euganean Hills, the two main spa towns - Abano Terme and Montegrotto Terme - and the much smaller ones of Battaglia Terme/Galzignano Terme are host to more than 100 hotels offering thermal pools and spa treatments. What makes this area special is the water and the mud.

Thermal spring 

The water is classified as "hyper-bromine-iodic" and reads at a constant temperature of 87F (31C). It begins as rain in the Alps (about 50 years ago), collects in uncontaminated basins at the foothills, runs through mineral -rich soil (for about 80km) and is warmed by the volcanic (not active) Euganean Hills. As a result, the water is hot and full of beneficial minerals that just make you feel good.

The hotels offer numerous thermal pools in which the water temperature is regulated (so its cool in the summer) and which have various hydro-therapy jet areas. Hot tubs, of course, little individual "barrels" on the sides of the pool which offer whole body water jet massages, water "beds' with jet massages, waterfalls and fountains for neck/back water massage, or just a large area to swim or take a water aerobics class. Most, if not all, pools are indoor/outdoor which is an added bonus in the winter. There's nothing like swimming in hot water on a cold afternoon.  In addition to the pools, the hotels have various spa treatments you can try, one of the most popular is the mud therapy, called Fangotherapy.  This mud is particular to the area, taken from two small "lakes" at the base of the hills and aged in big tanks with the thermal water.

Abano Terme pedestrian area

The towns themselves are really centered around the hotels and will not satisfy your need for that old, quaint Italian town. But, there are plenty of activities and good food to be had. Both Abano and Montegrotto have expansive pedestrian areas with great shops to peruse and bars to have a leisurely espresso. Hotels also loan out bicycles so you can take a ride in the hills or around the towns (they are very bike friendly). Though you can find fancy, cosmopolitan spas, if you're looking for that Zen type spa - this is not the place. The Terme Euganee has an atmosphere that is more like those old black & white movies where people took months off to recuperate at the spa hotels, strolling around the grounds in their luxurious robes - kind of a casual elegance if that makes sense.

Catajo  - Valsanzibio

A few other attractions:
- The Euganean Hills themselves (more on that in another post)
- Montegrotto - Ruins of a Roman spa that can be toured
- Battaglia - Castello del Catajo, hosts events and offers night time ghost tours
- Galzignano - Villa Valsanzibio Garden with its hedge maze
- Numerous Venetian villas, vineyards, etc.

Other info of note:

• The towns of Abano Terme and Montegrotto Terme are very close together and offer a tram that runs between them making stops at hotels, pedestrian areas, etc. - it is called the Puffetto (because its painted Smurf blue and in Italy, the Smurfs are called I Puffi)
• There is a train station in Montegrotto which is the Terme Euganee station; it is a major stop on the train routes
• These spa towns are about a 45-minute train ride from Venice and even closer from Padova
• All the hotels have room/spa packages but if you aren't staying in town, you can purchase day passes to the pools
• Always check for local events - this area has a ton of events in the towns as well as the hills

So now you know. You're welcome. lol

More later...

Gift Guide 2013

A non-too-subtle hint of what I
want for Christmas.

Wow, it is November! I can hardly believe the year has gone by so fast. I’ve been thinking a lot about the holidays lately as this is my first holiday season in Italy. I am very much looking forward to experiencing a full Christmas season with Italians and can’t wait to go to the Christmas Markets that should be starting in the next few weeks!

I love to buy presents. Seriously. I start thinking about gifts sometime in October and obsess about what to get for whom for the next month or so. I really like to give thoughtful gifts that I think my loved ones will really like/use/want. Then I wrap it up in a pretty box with beautiful wrapping paper (I am addicted to pretty wrapping paper, it broke my heart to give it all away before I moved), and pop on a bow. Since I am in Italy this year, I will be shipping my gifts to family back in Texas so I started obsessing much earlier and need to be more organized so everything can get there in time. Fingers crossed.

All that being said, I have started my internet search on this year's cool gifts and thought I’d share a few with you, in case you too are in shopping mood. Without further ado… my picks. (Please feel free to share any suggestions you might have as well!)

GIFT IDEAS

FInnish wool throw

• Apple Valley Natural Soaps – who doesn’t love pretty soaps and scrubs? This is a family-run small business who uses natural ingredients for their products. I’m a sucker for mom & pop businesses and who doesn’t love to smell good! They can be great stocking stuffers, Secret Santa, or hostess gift.
• Tryst Dusting Silk – Lady Primrose products are not cheap but they are beautifully packaged and smell great!  They have a wide variety of bath and body products that help make a bathroom look and smell great. I use the dusting silk (or powder as we call it in my family – we’re not too fancy) and gave both my sister and mom some last Christmas. It was a huge hit, so if you’re looking for something a little special, check out their site.
• Sweet Life Paper – I found this shop on Etsy (who doesn’t love etsy!) and their stationary is so cute! Teacher gifts, note pads, journals, etc. – they can be personalized and are priced reasonably.
• Finnish Throw - This Finnish company is family owned and makes beautiful wool throws and washed linen kitchen towels - among other things. It's a splurge but really well priced for the quality. They are based in Finland but stores sell their products around the world and also offer direct online sales. 
• Banderole Pencil Set – come on… these are just fun! The link is for a UK site but the USA site has the pencils as well!
• Bottle Opener – this cool bottle opener would be an awesome gift paired with a bottle of wine!
• USB Key Ring – nice leather and useful.  A bit pricey but I’d like it.
• iPad Telephoto Lens – who would’ve thought? And it’s cheap too!
• Macaroon Ear Bud Holder – handy and convenient. Great stocking stuffer.
• Kung Fu Master Flash Drive – for techies of all kinds.
• Alessi Pencil Sharpener – ok, I will admit it. I want this for myself. How cute is a beaver pencil sharpener! It’s a little pricey but the funny factor alone makes it worth it. (It matches this cute paper clip holder too).
• Moleskine Passion Journals – You really can’t go wrong with any Moleskine product but I love the variety of the passion journals. These are great gifts for anyone you know (I have the travel one myself) – and fellow ex-pat blogger Sara Rosso actually contributed to the Dessert journal – how awesome is that?
• Vosges Chocolates – I have to include my favorite chocolate bars. The Mini Chocolate Bar Library is delicious as is everything they make. It is pricier
  than your average chocolate but so so good.
• Whiskey Rocks – no description needed J
• I eight sum pi plates – HAHA. The nerd in me loves these! (also the site has a ton of unique gifts. It’s worth a browse).
• Phaidon City Guides - for someone planning or dreaming of a trip, these guides are beautiful and make a great collection. (sorry if the site comes up in Italian from the link) 

More later…

A controversial statement...

I am about to open a whole big can of worms and here it is... you CAN drink cappuccino after 10 am in Italy! My native Italian and I do it all the time, though I will clarify there are a few caveats:

1) It is still not cool to drink cappuccino with lunch or any meal aside from breakfast. The thought of drinking all that milk with non-sweet food will freak them out for sure.

2) While it is not frowned upon if you drink it any time of day as a "break" kind of snack, the other sweet spot for having a cappuccino is between 4 and 5 in the afternoon. It is well before aperitif time so it won't hinder your early evening spritz.

3) If it is after 10 am - have it as a stand-alone drink or with a cookie/pastry. see #1

Ok, whew, I feel better.

I realize this is the exact opposite advice from every other expat out there, but this is my Italy. True, every region is different but Times, they are a changing. And I have yet to hear a barista lecture my native Italian speaker when he orders it.

More later...

La Biennale, Venice

Model of the Encyclopedia Palace

The Venice Biennale is one of the most prestigious cultural institutions in the world. It began as an international art exhibition and has expanded to include festivals on art, music, cinema, theater, and architecture. Probably the two most famous exhibits linked to the Biennale are the Art and Architecture exhibitions, which alternate with each other so that they are bi-annual - usually, running from June to the end of November.

The cinema aspect of La Biennale takes place every year as the Venice Film Festival.  Music, theater and dance exhibitions are much smaller and don't last as long as the primary two. The festival also has kid and family friendly activities, so check the website for a calendar of events.

This year, 2013, is the International Art Exhibit - but what is it exactly you might ask? It is the most prestigious art exhibit in the world. You will find art from over 150 artists from 37 countries, as well as 88 national participants - meaning in addition to the individual artists,  88 countries have their own rooms or pavilions to display national offerings. It is spread in two main areas of Venice - the Giardini and the Arsenale.  The Giardini is in the eastern part of Venice and contains the main Central Pavilion showcasing individual artists as well as 29 national pavilions spread throughout the garden.  The Arsenale is a HUGE collection of buildings that date back to the 13th century where boats were built and armed for the military of the Serenissima. It was really the first assembly-type production center of the world. It's an interesting place to see in and of itself, and  now is used to host exhibits.

My Italian looks forward to this festival every year, whether art or architecture, he cannot wait to see what's on display. So, this past weekend we hopped on the train and headed to Venice to see what's what. There is so much to see that you can't do it all in one day; so the ticket you buy is good for two days - when you purchase the ticket make sure you get the right one, one is for 2 consecutive days, and another is for any 2 days be they consecutive or not.  We decided to see the Arsenale first as I had not seen the area since it was renovated.   It was very interesting - not only seeing the venue which consists of beautiful huge spaces, but also seeing the art. This year's theme is "Il Palazzo Enciclopedio" (The Encyclopedia Palace) which is based on an imaginary museum meant to hold all worldly knowledge. Marino Auriti had this dream and actually wanted to build a 136-story building in Washington that would take up over 16 blocks. While that building could not be built, the idea also correlates with the idea of "building" memory palaces, or memory maps, a technique used both in ancient times and today for remembering information. I don't know that much about art (especially modern art) or memory maps, but it did what art is supposed to do. It makes you think.

Sometimes the images are beautiful, sometimes they are scary. they are weird and creepy, maybe even smutty. you can get lost in the beauty of some detailed drawing and stare in awe at the talent of the artist. or you can avert your eyes from the creepy film clips of women with fluorescent makeup lounging in a disgustingly dirty space holding chickens. The art can be hauntingly beautiful or hauntingly grotesque (like the chickens. lol) but it all has the same purpose. It makes you feel and react. You don't always understand the underlying symbols or exactly what social point the artist is trying to make, but it does make you think. it makes you discuss possibilities, and it broadens your mind. We're only halfway through but I look forward to going back to see the exhibits in the Giardini. If you are going to Venice, you should try to catch La Biennale - it's really cool to share such an international experience.

Here are a few pics what we saw; click on my Instagram icon to see a few more.

More later...

Random Tips: Pizza

Learn from my mistakes.... :)

#1. Don't assume all pizzas come with a tomato sauce base. If you don't see the word "pomodoro" in the description, you're most likely going to get a white pizza. BTW - "pomodorini" refers to sliced cherry tomatoes. 

#2. "Peperoni" are bell peppers, not the spicy salami we get in the USA. If, like me, you despise any kind of bell peppers, you will not have a pleasant pizza experience. :) Look for "salamino picante" or some kind of similar wording if you're looking for the meat version.

#3. There are no doggie-bags. Most people get individual pizzas, though sharing is not frowned upon. Look around at the pizzas your fellow diners are eating. If it looks like more than you can eat, see if someone will share OR if they are willing to eat what you can't. It is not good form to ask for a box to take home leftovers. Italians just don't do that. But really... come on, the crust is uber-thin, toppings are not too abundant - are you sure you can't eat it all?

#4. No free refills or ice. If you're ordering a soda, water, lemonade, etc. don't expect it to contain ice. it will be very cold but ice is drinks is not "normal" here. (something about drinks being too cold & impeding digestion  i think? whatever) Also, there are no bottomless glasses , if you wan't a refill, be prepared to pay for it.


More later...

Mangare Bene: Pizza

To eat well.

Eating well is definitely a perk when visiting Italy and it’s hard to eat better than a pizza! For a thin crust lover like me, Italy is a treasure trove of deliciousness. The pizzerias are plentiful (in my area they are HUGE spaces!) with a million toppings and cheeses to choose from. It usually takes me a good 10-15 minutes to decide which pizza I want from the 2-inch thick menu.

The other night we were craving pizza but didn’t want to make it ourselves and our favorite “da asporto” (take-away/delivery) pizza place was closed for vacation, so we decided to go out.  This time we went to a pizzeria called Hugel Keller in Montegrotto Terme (near Padova, in Veneto). The name Hugel Keller basically means “Cellar of the Hills” in German (there are a lot of German tourist in this area) and the name is fitting - from the expanse of wood used in the décor to the list of beers it serves. The menu is extensive with a ton of pizza options and a very friendly staff.  There are small intimate tables and HUGE tables that seat about 20, both indoors and outdoors. The atmosphere is casual and cozy, and the pizza is delicious.

On this particular night, I decided to get a pizza with tomato sauce, mozzarella, Chiodini mushrooms (don’t know the American equivalent to these but they are good), and salamino picante, which is kind of like pepperoni in America. S. got a pizza with tomato sauce, mozzarella, porcini mushrooms and speck, which is an air-dried lightly smoked ham.  Both pizzas came out bubbling hot and oh my, were they good. The crust is crisp and flavorful, the salamino spicy, the cheese abundant but not too much so - Italians are wizards at what I like to call “abundant moderation”; they put just enough ingredients on/in things without going overboard. I have yet to learn that skill. Accompany all that with an ice cold coke (or beer if you prefer) and the sublime is attained. (sorry the lighting is not great in the pics below)

My pizza

S. Pizza

The pizzeria has been open for 20+ years and was one of the first restaurants I ever went to in Italy, way back when S and I were dating. I remember the place clearly as it had a big “Don’t Mess with Texas” sticker on the front door, which was highly amusing for this Texan. It was such a random find, who would’ve thought? Sadly, the sticker is gone now as they have expanded and remodeled over the years. BUT, one thing still remains – the pizza is cheesy, hot and outstanding!

Pizzeria Hugel Keller
Via Caposeda 24
Montegrotto Terme, Province of Padova
049 793482

More later…

OTBP: Bassano del Grappa (Veneto)

I’ve decided to start a series on the blog called “Off the Beaten Path”, or OTBP (cuz I’m lazy), where I showcase a lesser-known town mostly in the Veneto region. The big tourist attractions are wonderful and important to see, but Italy has so much more to offer if you can take the time to wander the less traditional areas. Today, let’s visit Bassano del Grappa.

Entrance to bridge - Ponte degli Alpini

Bassano del Grappa is in the Vicenza province of the Veneto. It’s a very old city at the base of the Pre-Alp mountain area and runs along the Brenta River. One of the most recognizable symbols of the city is the Ponte degli Alpini, which is a wooden pontoon bridge designed by Andrea Palladio in 1569.  The Alpini are an elite mountain infantry group that was created to protect Italy’s northern mountain border.

...those are bullet holes folks...

Because of the geography of the city, the town has been on the forefront of many wars – it was hit hard during The French Revolution (Napoleon stayed in the city for several months), World War I (The Great War) and World War II - battle scars can still be seen today. As a result, the Ponte degli Alpini has been rebuilt several times, most recently after WW2, where the Alpine soldiers funded the rebuilding through private collections.  As an aside for literature buffs, Ernest Hemingway spent some time in Bassano during his stint as an ambulance driver in WW1. Several parts of his book “A Farewell to Arms” were set here.

Aside from its war-time history, Bassano del Grappa is also famous for something else – Grappa. Grappa is a highly alcoholic beverage made from distilling all the leftovers from making wine – leaves, stems, pulp, etc.  It’s usually drunk as a digestivo (after-dinner drink) and is also frequently added to espresso for a caffe’ corretto. A well-known Grappa maker is Nardini, who has a very cool space-agey distillery near town that offers a guided tour and samples, in addition to a shop on the Ponte degli Alpini which displays old distillery vats, equipment, etc. and sells the spirit.  Be warned, Grappa is very strong – you can “feel the burn” all the way down when you drink it J.  

Palazzo Sturm -
Museo Remondini

The town is divided by the Brenta River and as you cross the Alpini Bridge you get to some of the oldest parts of the city. It is lovely, and the best way to explore is just to get lost in the maze of streets. If you are a nerd like me, a trip to the Museo Remondini which is a print/paper museum housed in Palazzo Sturm is a must. For 200 years, the Remondini family were high-end publishers who printed on paper they made; they were typographers - printing at a time when books were expensive and precious. The museum exhibits items they published, the presses and letter blocks they used, wallpapers made, etc. It is EXTREMELY interesting for someone who loves all things associated with paper. Throughout the year they also hold hands-on workshops, which I will totally blog about when I get to go! (If you want to read more about the Remondini’s here’s a nice article). Also, housed in the Palazzo Sturm is a ceramic museum. The area is famous for ceramics and the museum showcases the locally made ceramics as well as majolica.

Monument on Mount Grappa

If you want to get out of the city and spend some time outdoors, take a trip to Mount Grappa. The countryside is beautiful, with cows grazing peacefully in the meadows, bells clanging as they walk. You’ll see small wooden buildings, Malga, dotting the landscape where local cheese is made and where, if you’re lucky, you’ll find someone on the side of the road selling that delicious cheese or a sign showing the way to a Malga that will sell it to you directly. At the top of the mountain there is a rifugio where you can take a rest, have a coffee and a snack. Also at the top is an army barracks with a small museum explaining the importance of that location during The Great War and a bunker that you can explore that goes deep into the mountain – wear a jacket, it gets cold! The most moving part of the mountain top is the monument that commemorates the thousands of men who died on the mountain – Italian, Austrian, etc. – all buried together in the ravages of war. Each niche of the monument represents an unnamed soldier that lost his life there.

I think I’ve hit the highlights, but there is much more to explore in this town. It’s a beautiful area of the Veneto and an ancient town full of historical and beautiful sites – definitely worth exploring if you like to get off the beaten path.

More later…

A Honey of a Day

Well, I’ve just completed my first summer in Italy. It was hot, but thankfully we have air-conditioning (and my Italian is not afraid to use it!). It was also much, much quieter as a mass exodus occurs when Italians flee the cities for umbrellas on a sandy beach or hikes in the cool fresh mountain air. We worked, but did enjoy the slower pace of our city. Now the vacationers are back and the city is bustling once again.

It seems that the end of summer opens up a whole new universe of activities, many (or most) of which are around food. If you know anything about Italians, you know that they are passionate about their food. Every region, every city, has their own unique local products and cuisine that they like to celebrate. So from now until the Christmas markets start up, there are a million and one events available, from tiny to huge - to explore the people/culture and see parts of the country (or region in my case) that you won’t find in the travel guides.

Festa del Miele, Bosco Chiesanuova

Local vendor

My first exprience of the season was going to the “Festa del Miele” (Honey Festival) in the town of Bosco Chiesanuova, which is in the province of Verona (region – Veneto).  Bosco Chiesanuova is a small town in the “Pre-Alp” mountain area known as Lessinia, in the northwest corner of the Verona province.  I was very excited about the event because 1). I love honey and 2). my husband S. was not familiar with the area – so it would be an adventure for us both.

Evidently, honey is one of the "prodotti tipici" of the area and while it was a small event, it was charming! Full of locals and not so crowded that you couldn’t take your time wandering around looking and tasting the different products. Before I met S. I was unaware that honey came in different flavors and forms (growing up, my honey came out of a bear shaped bottle) – the flavors on display varied from a mild light honey collected from bees who flock to wild flowers (millefiori) to the medium taste/colored one from dandelions (tarassaco) to a strong dark honey from chestnut trees (castagno). There were also blended honey mixtures like the two that we bought - strawberry jam/honey and a spread made from ground hazelnuts and honey (which almost has a chocolately taste).  There were candies, candles, and various creams/lotions all produced from local bee keepers.

Another perk is trying dishes that are particular to that area/town.

Local gnocchi

Evidently, the population of the Lessinia area is Cimbri, so their culture, food, even language are unique.  While we didn’t have time that day to explore the history of the Cimbri in depth, we did get to taste some of the food. Our lunch was a bowl of delicious “Gnocchi Sbatui” – what? I know, S. had never heard of it either, but let me tell you – it was DELICIOUS. Instead of the gnocchi being soft little pillows, they were flatter and irregularly shaped – kind of like a cross between standard gnocchi and spaetzle – made from smoked ricotta cheese (I think, my Italian is not great yet), tossed in melted butter, then sprinkled with breadcrumbs and parmesan cheese. YUM!!!  Talk about delicious! and it’s unlikely you would find it anywhere else in Italy. 

As we walked around we also saw that there was a film festival starting and while we didn’t stay to see any films, we did get to explore the theater and little book fair they were hosting. Italians are seriously creative and the event décor for the film festival was stylish and elegant - even a small local festival looks modern and cool. On our way out, we found a shop which sold Cimbri food and specialties so we decided to try some local cheese seasoned with chives and a pastry (can't remember the name) – which was a zabaglione-cream filled éclair type pastry. Both were very tasty, though only the cheese made it all the way home J

Before I close, let me just say that the Lessinia area is BEAUTIFUL. I fell in love with it. The mountains had wide expanses of green meadows and the towns were lovely – it is an area I look forward to further exploring and posting about.

More later…

The Tears of San Lorenzo…

Every year around August 10^th, Italians flee to higher ground and look to the stars. Why, you might ask? It is San Lorenzo’s day and it falls during the period of the Perseid Meter Shower – which means, a sky full of shooting stars and for Italians: The Tears of San Lorenzo.

Not growing up Catholic, I knew very little about San Lorenzo (Lawrence) or really any other saints. He is a beloved saint to Italians who was the “keeper of the treasures of the church” in the early 3^rd century and when asked by the Roman Prefect to present that treasure - what he presented were people – the sick, the poor, and the weary. You see, he had distributed the church’s treasure to the poor and needy instead of handing it over to the Romans. This enraged the Prefect, he arrested Lorenzo and according to legend, had him roasted alive on a grill over burning coals. The shooting stars during this meteor shower are said to represent the tears he shed while being roasted, thinking about the people he considered far more valuable “treasures” than the jewels and gold that had been in the coffers.

So in honor of this beloved saint, on August 10^th, Italians flee the city and find a spot to watch the astrological show. There are usually many star gazing events on this day – dinners and events that take place away from the city lights. We live near the beautiful Euganean Hills (Colli Euganei) so went up to a lovely spot called CasaMarina and with about a dozen or so other people, watched the sky for the shooting stars. This year, the peak of the shower is around the 11^th - 12^th so there weren’t too many shooting stars to see yet, though we did managed to see about 4 – which to be honest, is more than this city girl had ever seen in her lifetime. Luckily for us, it was a gorgeous night, with clear skies, a million stars, and a nice pleasant breeze. And while we will go back up around the peak to see more, it was awesome to connect to the culture by following this tradition that Italians have been doing for years.

So, if you find yourself in Italy mid-August around the 10^th, check your local papers and tourist offices – find out where to go for the best view of the sky, or see what events are planned that night. It’s a great way to experience local culture, you might even happen upon a small group of astronomers who will let you look through their telescope J  and who can pass up on a magical night full of shooting stars.  I’ve made my wishes, you should too.

More later…

I'm Back!

After that short, nay LONG break, I am back to blogging!

However, now, this Texan is far away from home and trying to assimilate to life in Italy. Same husband. different town. new kitty. Bear with me while I make some changes/updates and get back into the blogging routine.

I hope you enjoy following along this new life ... it's going to be an adventure that is for sure!

More later...

International Cat Day

In honor of International Cat Day, I'd like to take this time to remember my beloved cat Sophie, whom I lost this past Thanksgiving and miss every day.

It is hard to think about her now and not cry. She was with me for over 15 years and was the sweetest, funniest kitty I've every had.

When I first rescued her from the pound, she was a young, short-haired, 5-lb, flea-ridden cat who fell in love with my father initially and hardly spared me a glance. My parents were about to move out of our family home with me staying on - and a house just wasn't a home without a kitty. It took me loads of money and who knows how much time to rid her and the house of fleas. more time to train her not to jump on the kitchen cabinets. and weeks for her to stop smacking my dogs. but we settled in. Who knew under that short-hair hair was a silky, long-haired kitty who would rule the roost and priss about with her tail in the air.

She loved me unconditionally and every work day, I found her waiting for me by the door or she would walk out into the garage so we could walk inside together. She didn't like it when S. and I fought or even had a loud discussion - she would meow and rub against both of us as if to calm us down. She made me laugh when I was down and kept me company when I was lonely. She would snuggle up to me on the sofa - maintaining her independence of course - and let me pick her up and hug her when I needed to. We made up songs for her, talked to her all the time and often wondered how a 8-lb cat could sound like a herd of elephants running up the stairs and down the hall.

And now that she's gone, it's astounding how a small, quiet animal leaves such a huge hole in your life. the house seems so empty without her. But I am thankful for the blessings and company she gave to me thru the years. I was hoping to have her longer but until that last day, she was still the same sweet kitty I had loved over the years.

If you are a cat lover and have a cat, take time to appreciate and enjoy your kitty today.

And so the Italian Adventure Begins...

After months of scouring the internets for tickets that wouldn't cost an arm and a leg or any other detachable body part, we finally decided that to save a few bucks we would give up the dream of getting to Italy early. And so, we found a pair taking off on Christmas Eve arriving late morning in Venice. Not ideal but not terrible either. At least we would make Christmas lunch :)

Daring dashes to the madhouse stores for last minute gifts and warm clothes (hello I live in Texas, it doesn't get that cold here). Long lists of what to pack with the determination not to stuff too much into the suitcase. Bills to pay so we could come back to a house with electricity. A million and one things to do before leaving which suck up the hours before a big trip.

The day finally arrives and guess what? A Christmas miracle occurred. It snowed in Dallas. HA of course it would snow as I am leaving. It looked lovely coming down along the runway as we waited for our flight. and waited. and waited. yep, our flight was delayed but not because of the snow. We were almost an hour late in leaving but the plane was nice and the movie selection... oh the movie selection was GINORMOUS!! I didn't sleep at all! I watched Julie & Julia, G-Force, and The Hangover. (that movie was hilarious lol)

Unfortunately, we didn't make up enough time in the air and had a tight connection in Amsterdam - where, I might add, we had to run across the WHOLE FREAKING AIRPORT to make our connection flight to Venice. S got to the gate before me and as I was running up to the gate, they called my name over the intercom.lol Hopping on the little tram we were the last ones on the plane. It was snowing pretty hard by that time and frankly we ran for for nothing because we were further delayed while they de-iced the wings. actually that was kind of cool. I'd never seen that before =)

Tired beyond belief, cramped in the little puddle jumper, and just ready to get there, S. & I couldn't help but get excited when we finally saw this:The Euganean Hills. S. loves those hills and I swear I could hear the angelic music swell as we gazed out the window to see them. So after a day of travel, no sleep, snow, and hot, cramped places - even though we were over an hour late in arriving - S. was home.

Our luggage however, was not.

More later...

**tap tap tap** **tap tap tap**

Anyone here? probably not and I don't blame you at all. 2009 was a pretty sucky year and life just got in the way of blogging. Plus, nothing interesting happened last year so...

However, the year ended on a good note with Christmas and New Years in Italy! Can you believe it had been 6 years since I had been on vacation? Or seen my in-laws?? Once I did the math, I couldn't believe it had been so long. sigh I totally needed it and it delivered!

So, as the new year has started (though I'm still a month late) I will be posting all about our adventures in Italy during the holidays. Where we went. What we ate. Crappy weather. Funny observations. and so on

Here is a teaser :) Where are we?

More later...

EUREKA!

AHA! I have cracked the DaVinci-esque code of making a good tomato sauce!

If you had told me 10 years ago that pasta would be a staple in my everyday diet, I would not have believed it. I didn't like pasta then. too mushy. too much sauce. or bland. yuck. My family was not a pasta family so I hadn't really been exposed to the good stuff. Since meeting and marrying S. that totally changed, and I have been on a quest to make at least a comparable sauce to the one he makes.

And so here we find ourselves. What is the secret you say? Well, in my humble opinion it is two-fold:

1. Use good tomatoes.

2. Let the sauce cook. For awhile. As long as you can and still keep it "quick"

Sounds simple right? Well it is and it isn't. Let's examine the process, keep in mind its all variation on a theme depending on what you have in the pantry, or are in the mood for, or have time for.

Most Italian sauces begin with a soffritto. Soffritto is basically the saute of diced aromatic vegetables - onions, carrots, celery - in extra virgin olive oil. Add a little salt and let them soften. We usually just use onions in the soffritto, probably because we are lazy and don't want to chop all the other veggies. Then add the tomato.

Here I will digress to a more personal approach. We usually use canned organic strained/crushed tomatoes for our sauces. Fresh are good, but as we don't grow our own, when we get fresh tomatoes (in season of course!) we like to eat them with mozzarella, drizzled with ev olive oil, salt, pepper and basil. We never seem to have a surplus for sauce. From time to time we do make a fresh tomato sauce, but I leave that to the expert - S. Anyway, back to the cooking. Try out different brands of canned tomatoes (not the pre-made spaghetti sauce or marinara) to see what fits your taste best. (Currently, we are really enjoying Pomi strained tomatoes). And then, let it cook. stir occasionally. taste for seasoning. let it cook some more. You see, as it cooks out the water, the tomato concentrates and thickens - the flavor is delicious! Interestingly enough, tomatoes are one of the few fruits (or vegetables if you swing that way) that when cooked, have higher levels of lycopene and antioxidants. I know some recipes add sugar to the sauce. I don't do that. I don't really like a sweet sauce - I think the tomatoes are sweet enough on their own. But to each his own I guess.

Pretty much that is it. A basic sauce. Mix it up by adding different herbs (like rosemary and basil or even herbs de provence) or spices. I like black pepper, red pepper flakes, smoked paprika or crushed red pepper. [side note: add some red pepper flakes to your soffritto for more flavor] We also like to add a bit of vegetable broth powder (which comes from Italy) as it gives a bit of depth to the taste. If you want meat or mushrooms in the sauce, cook the mushrooms with the soffritto or add the cooked meat after the vegetables soften.

Now combine it with good pasta. Seriously, there are definitely some bad dried pastas out there. We have tried them all and DeCecco is our pick. There are other good brands but this one is the most accessible to us. (meaning I don't have to go to Whole Foods or Central Market to get it, my local grocery store has it) I just learned from S. that by looking at the cook time on the pasta box, you can tell if it is good or not (most of the time). The longer the cook time, the better the pasta. Who knew? And for God's sake DONT OVERCOOK THE PASTA! overcooked pasta is gross. It should be "al dente" and you don't need to throw it against the wall to see if it's ready. HA just get a piece and chew it. if there is a little bit of resistance when you bite it. firm but not hard, it's ready.

Once the pasta is drained we normally put in the sauce pot, stir to combine with sauce and add parmesan cheese. This technique helps dry the pasta a bit and helps the sauce adhere to it. I'm not sure but I think this is more traditionally Southern Italian. I say that only because there are so many different ways and variations of making "authentic Italian". This is how we do it, it's not even something S's mom ever did - it's our own kind of northern-italian-texan twist.

I don't mean to brag or anything, but S. has even said my sauce is as good as his mother's. High praise indeed! lol

More later...

A New Twist on Tourism

Ahh Tornado Alley. I live in it. YAY!

For those of you who do not have this privilege, let me tell you that from an early age (elementary) we are given instruction on what to do in case a tornado heads our way. Believe me, if you haven't spent some time in the school hallway, on your knees, bending over with your arms over your head, during a tornado drill, you have not lived.

Can I get an Amen? HA! Anyway, I tell you this so you understand that I have a healthy appreciation (and fear) of tornadoes. When spring comes around, which is traditionally the beginning of storm season (though this year it seems to have started in winter), you can be sure that my mind automatically and unconsciously calculates the most internal space available in whatever building I'm during a storm. (It really does, just like my brain automatically calculates Italian time when I look at the clock.)

Now, don't be thinking I'm all obsessive or take cover whenever there's even a slight chance of tornadoes. I don't do that. However, I have been through one and it makes an impression. But normally, I am not that nervous during the season, just keep a watchful eye on the weather. My Italian on the other hand, did not grow up with extreme weather conditions. He has a tendency to "freak" out a bit when severe storms come our way. (shhh don't tell him I said that) I am completely surprised he has not yet built a storm shelter in our home. HA! I will admit though, he has gotten much much better =) But with his fear comes a fascination with tornadoes, that I cannot conceive. Evidently, he is not alone in that.

Over the last several years, it has come to my attention that a new tourist attraction has been created. Storm Chasing. People from all over the world descend upon our fair states looking for the awe-if not fear-inspiring onslaught of tornadoes, hail and severe storms that roam Tornado Alley. These are tours folks. Tours which have the ultimate goal of seeing a tornado spawned from the sky.

For me "storm chasers" are trained people who work with the weather centers and news meteorology teams to let them know what is developing. They are quite an organized group, full of HAMM radio operators, many with in-vehicle radar screens and whatchimacallit weather related gadgets. But not anymore. Recently, we watched a BBC produced show of a group of English travelers on a tour. In Italy, out of the beautiful town of Teolo, you have these guys who ride along with experts from OU every year. My Italian explains that while of course these storms bring about terrible damage and heartache for the people involved, it is one of the very unique "American" experiences a foreigner can have. Kind of like visiting the Southwest. It is the awe-inspiring raw power and sometimes terrifying beauty of nature.

In light of this, he dragged me to a severe storm seminar. *sigh* You would not BELIEVE how many people were in attendance! I am not even exaggerating when I estimate around 400. The place was packed. All of us were there to learn how to identify characteristics of severe storms, possibly tornadic storms, in the cloud formations. I learned a lot. As much as I griped (internally) about not wanting to go, it was actually very interesting. I even found myself a little excited about the phenomena. Anticipating severe weather so I can put what I learned into practice. What is wrong with me? lol

I am such a nerd.

More later...

Discovering Italy

Today we are going to visit Sabbioneta. It is located in Northern Italy on the plains between the Po and Oglio Rivers. In 2008, Sabbioneta was added as a UNESCO World Heritage site (along with Mantova).

Regione: Lombardia
Provincia: Mantova
City: Sabbioneta

Known as “The Ideal City,” Sabbioneta was the brain-child of one man, Vespasiano Gonzaga Colonna, who was from a branch of the famous Gonzaga family, Dukes of Mantova. This city was designed based on the theories of ideal city planning and built in the second half of the 16th Century. The design of the city represents the functional vision of the Renaissance period, which relied heavily on the use of proportions derived from observing Roman ruins. The rediscovery of ancient books, the theory of the Greek “Golden Ratio” and Neoplatonism also helped shape the Renaissance city planning. The outline of the city is shaped by fortifications in an irregular hexagon form with 6 bastions at the corners, much of which is well preserved.

In this city, Vincenzo Scamozzi was hired to construct the Teatro all’antica. Scamozzi was a student of Andrea Palladio, and one of the most important architects of his time. The Teatro all’antica is very important in the history of theater, as it was the first indoor theater built specifically that purpose and served as a model for the European theaters that followed. Sabbioneta also hosted an important Jewish community and Hebrew printing press, which you can still visit today. Other places of interest include the Palazzo del Giardino, Galleria della Antichi, Palazzo Ducale, various churches, the remaining bastions, Porta Vittoria – the most ancient entrance of the town - and the Sinagoga, (the synagogue).

Food. You can’t visit a city without experiencing the food. (plus it’s the best part of any trip!) Let’s start with my favorite part of the meal – dessert. Torta sbrisolona, literally “crumb cake” is a local specialty made with almonds. Traditionally dipped in wine, but coffee or hot chocolate work too. YUM. Pasta - Tortelli mantovani di Zucca. Tortelli are kind of like large ravioli, in this dish filled with a pumpkin/amaretti filling. (I haven’t tried it but next time I will and report back!) Wine – Lambrusco sabbionetano is a red wine using only local grapes grown in the area’s sandy soil.

It is a lovely city with a lot of interesting things to see. For me, part of the intrigue is the fact it was built just to embody the Renaissance thoughts of the time. If you are in the area, take the time to stop by. Sabbioneta will not disappoint you!

More later...

2009!

Wow! Happy New Year's folks!! can you believe it is already mid-January? I'm sorry I've been so absent. The Italian, Christmas and work have kept me hoppin'! This year is shaping up to be another busy one but I am trying to be more organized and get back to regular blogging.

So in case y'all have forgotten me - or on the off chance anyone new is stopping by, I decided to do another "get to know me" quiz. ha Here we go:

1. WERE YOU NAMED AFTER ANYONE?
Actually I am. My paternal grandmother was Stacy, though I didn't get her middle name of Ann, which she went by. Doesn't it seem weird that someone born in 1900 was named Stacy? I wonder where it came from - seems odd surrounded by the Inge, Bertie Lee, Pearl, etc. names of her 10 siblings.

2. WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU CRIED?
OH gosh, maybe a better question is when was the last time you DIDN'T cry. I'm a crier, though I will admit its been a good week or so. Unless you count getting "teary". ha

3. DO YOU LIKE YOUR HANDWRITING?
Hmmm - I used to think it was fine but lately it just looks messy. sigh

4. DO YOU HAVE KIDS?
Nope, just a cat.

5. IF YOU WERE ANOTHER PERSON WOULD YOU BE FRIENDS WITH YOU?
Absolutely!

6. DO YOU USE SARCASM A LOT?
Me? Nooooo *scoffs* HA

7. DO YOU STILL HAVE YOUR TONSILS
You know what - I can't remember! I think no, but will have to check with my mom.

8. WOULD YOU BUNGEE JUMP?
Hell no!

9. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE CEREAL?
Kashi Heart to Heart Oatmeal Flakes with Blueberry Clusters. OH SO GOOD. and as an added plus the milk turns blue. YAY

10. DO YOU UNTIE YOUR SHOES WHEN YOU TAKE THEM OFF?
no, i usually pull my feet out. i know thats bad...

11. DO YOU THINK YOU ARE STRONG?
yes, i guess so physically. emotionally - absolutely, though you may not think it because I cry.

12. FAVORITE ICE CREAM?
Absolute 100% favorite of all time? Baskin Robbins Chocolate Peanut Butter. But I like most ice cream/gelato. It's all good in my book.

13.WHAT IS THE FIRST THING YOU NOTICE ABOUT PEOPLE?
Usually their smiles and the look in their eyes. You can tell when someone is being insincere by their eyes.

14. RED OR PINK?
Red. Though I do like pink now and then. but not Barbie pink. yuk

15. WHAT IS THE LEAST FAVORITE THING ABOUT YOURSELF?
My nose. I have my mother's cursed nose. thankfully in a smaller form but they say your nose continues to grow throughout life. That does not bode well for me.

16. WHO DO YOU MISS THE MOST?
The Italian when he's in Italy.

17. WHAT COLOR SHOES ARE YOU WEARING?
Light green - I have my plushy warm slippers on!

18. WHAT WAS THE LAST THING YOU ATE?
Pesto Tortellini in vegetable broth

19 WHAT ARE YOU LISTENING TO RIGHT NOW?
The Italian reading to me off a website. his accent is so cute. hehe

20.IF YOU WERE A CRAYON, WHAT COLOR WOULD YOU BE?
So many great colors to chose from! I'd love to be a different color every day! but since I have to choose - aqua. it's the first one that popped into my head.

21.FAVORITE SMELLS?
Vanilla, cinnamon, any kind of baking smells, coffee, gasoline (I know!) spicey and citrousy smells.

22. WHO WAS THE LAST PERSON YOU TALKED TO ON THE PHONE?
My friend K.

23. FAVORITE SPORTS TO WATCH?
College football and basketball.

24. HAIR COLOR?
Dark Brown.

25. EYE COLOR?
Green (sometimes blue but never brown).

26. DO YOU WEAR CONTACTS?
Nope. I do have glasses for distance vision, though.

27.FAVORITE FOOD?
It's a tie between real Italian and Mexican. but I also really like Mediterranean and good ole American.

28. SCARY MOVIES OR SAPPY ENDINGS?S
Totally love sappy endings. hey I don't care if they aren't realistic. I live in the real world I don't want to watch it all the time! I don't mind suspensive movies but bloody, gorey kind of movies I can do without.

29. LAST MOVIE YOU WATCHED?
huh I don't know - we've watched so many lately. Close Encounters of the Third Kind?

30. WHAT COLOR SHIRT ARE YOU WEARING?
red and white striped turtleneck

31. SUMMER OR WINTER?
this is a hard one for me - i really like spring and fall best. Summer is too hot here but I like to swim so.... however, winter is a nice break. the cold invigorates me but then again, it's Texas - it doesn't get THAT cold for very long. hmmmm

32. HUGS OR KISSES?
Yes, please.

33. FAVORITE DESSERT?
Chocolate. Or Chocolate. Or Cake or cookies or... let's just say I like my sweets.

34.WHAT BOOK ARE YOU READING NOW?
Foucault's Pendulum by Umberto Eco

35. WHAT IS ON YOUR MOUSE PAD?
psychedelic flowers =)

36. WHAT DID YOU WATCH ON TV LAST NIGHT?
Tales from the Palaces (BBC awesomeness)

37.FAVORITE SOUND?
Rain, thunder and beautiful male singing voices

38. ROLLING STONES OR BEATLES?
Beatles

39. WHAT IS THE FARTHEST YOU HAVE BEEN FROM HOME?
Italy. but I'm shooting for Australia one day

40.DO YOU HAVE A SPECIAL TALENT?
I used to sing extremely well but now.. not so much.

41.WHERE WERE YOU BORN?
Texas.

More Later...