Mangiare Bene: Osteria Al Guerriero

Al Guerriero (The Warrior)

This weekend we spent the day in a beautiful hill town called Arqua Petrarca. I will post more about this town because it is absolutely stunning and one of the jewels of the Colli Euganei (Euganean Hills). Our main objective was to go to Frantoio Colli del Poeta, a local olive mill, to get some freshly pressed olive oil. If you've never had freshly pressed olive oil, you are missing out - there's nothing better! Drizzle it over some toasted bread, sprinkle with salt and enjoy. If you find yourself in Italy around November, look for local olive presses - they usually give tours and tastings. It's something not to be missed.

Anyway, after we did our tour and bought our bottle(s) it was lunch time.  I had read about this little osteria on the web and decided we should stop and eat.  Osteria Al Guerriero is a tiny place right off of the main square of Arqua Petrarca and looks exactly like you would expect it to. A crazy old stone building, beautiful wood ceilings, fireplace in the back, clean white walls, glass and brass gleaming, holding about 8 tables total. The owner and wait staff are extremely friendly and though they don't speak much English are happy to give you suggestions about the menu and/or wine selections. I can't stress enough how pleasant and nice the people were. They are so welcoming and make you feel right at home.

Osteria Al Guerriero entrance

We were lucky and got there at the right time because when we left, people were waiting for tables (did I tell you IT'S SMALL!). The menu is written on a chalkboard outside the door as it changes frequently. It is a small  space and serves typical Veneto cuisine - some of which I personally won't eat, such as horse (cavallo) and donkey (musso). We decided to have an antipasto course and a primi which was:

Antipasto - slice of a zucchini frittata, slice of a torta salata (kind of like a quiche) with veggies in it, some ribbons of zucchini which were slightly pickled, and a caponata. All super delicious and the caponata didn't have bell peppers in it (most of them do, and I hate bell peppers) so I was happy - all served with a basket of bread.

Just inside the door

Primi - I had a bowl of mushroom soup which was really good (though needed a touch more salt) with big chunks of wild mushrooms and potatoes, and a good amount of parmesan cheese/crostini. S. had the house specialty, an onion lasagna - you should totally try that, it was hard for me just to have one bite. The onions are sliced thin and sweet, mixed with bechamel sauce and layered among thin sheets of pasta and parmesan cheese.

We decided against a meat or dessert course but I'm sure the offerings were good. It was a cozy, warm place to enjoy good food and get out of the cold wind.

Arqua Petrarca is definitely a town worth a visit. I will post more about it one day, but remember the name, you'll want to see it. And while you are there, stop in at Osteria Al Guerriero for warm Italian hospitality, good food, and a very "Italian" experience.

Name: Osteria Al Guerriero
Where: Via Jacopo d'Arqua 2
             Arqua Petrarca
Province: Padova
Phone: 0429.718376

More later...

OTBP: Terme Euganee

Did you know that for more than 2000 years, people have been visiting the Terme Euganee  to enjoy their thermal pools and spas? The Romans valued the area for its waters and would travel there for its healing benefits and relaxation. Living here, it seems the place is well-known in Italy, Germany, and Russia -  but not I think, to many others. I'm going to let you in on this well-kept (?) secret of Italy so you too can be in the know.

Here's the scoop:

Region: Veneto
Province: Padova
Main Spa Towns: Abano Terme, Montegrotto Terme, Battaglia Terme/Galzignano Terme

The area of the Terme Euganee is the largest thermal spa in Europe. Set at the base of the Euganean Hills, the two main spa towns - Abano Terme and Montegrotto Terme - and the much smaller ones of Battaglia Terme/Galzignano Terme are host to more than 100 hotels offering thermal pools and spa treatments. What makes this area special is the water and the mud.

Thermal spring 

The water is classified as "hyper-bromine-iodic" and reads at a constant temperature of 87F (31C). It begins as rain in the Alps (about 50 years ago), collects in uncontaminated basins at the foothills, runs through mineral -rich soil (for about 80km) and is warmed by the volcanic (not active) Euganean Hills. As a result, the water is hot and full of beneficial minerals that just make you feel good.

The hotels offer numerous thermal pools in which the water temperature is regulated (so its cool in the summer) and which have various hydro-therapy jet areas. Hot tubs, of course, little individual "barrels" on the sides of the pool which offer whole body water jet massages, water "beds' with jet massages, waterfalls and fountains for neck/back water massage, or just a large area to swim or take a water aerobics class. Most, if not all, pools are indoor/outdoor which is an added bonus in the winter. There's nothing like swimming in hot water on a cold afternoon.  In addition to the pools, the hotels have various spa treatments you can try, one of the most popular is the mud therapy, called Fangotherapy.  This mud is particular to the area, taken from two small "lakes" at the base of the hills and aged in big tanks with the thermal water.

Abano Terme pedestrian area

The towns themselves are really centered around the hotels and will not satisfy your need for that old, quaint Italian town. But, there are plenty of activities and good food to be had. Both Abano and Montegrotto have expansive pedestrian areas with great shops to peruse and bars to have a leisurely espresso. Hotels also loan out bicycles so you can take a ride in the hills or around the towns (they are very bike friendly). Though you can find fancy, cosmopolitan spas, if you're looking for that Zen type spa - this is not the place. The Terme Euganee has an atmosphere that is more like those old black & white movies where people took months off to recuperate at the spa hotels, strolling around the grounds in their luxurious robes - kind of a casual elegance if that makes sense.

Catajo  - Valsanzibio

A few other attractions:
- The Euganean Hills themselves (more on that in another post)
- Montegrotto - Ruins of a Roman spa that can be toured
- Battaglia - Castello del Catajo, hosts events and offers night time ghost tours
- Galzignano - Villa Valsanzibio Garden with its hedge maze
- Numerous Venetian villas, vineyards, etc.

Other info of note:

• The towns of Abano Terme and Montegrotto Terme are very close together and offer a tram that runs between them making stops at hotels, pedestrian areas, etc. - it is called the Puffetto (because its painted Smurf blue and in Italy, the Smurfs are called I Puffi)
• There is a train station in Montegrotto which is the Terme Euganee station; it is a major stop on the train routes
• These spa towns are about a 45-minute train ride from Venice and even closer from Padova
• All the hotels have room/spa packages but if you aren't staying in town, you can purchase day passes to the pools
• Always check for local events - this area has a ton of events in the towns as well as the hills

So now you know. You're welcome. lol

More later...

OTBP: Bassano del Grappa (Veneto)

I’ve decided to start a series on the blog called “Off the Beaten Path”, or OTBP (cuz I’m lazy), where I showcase a lesser-known town mostly in the Veneto region. The big tourist attractions are wonderful and important to see, but Italy has so much more to offer if you can take the time to wander the less traditional areas. Today, let’s visit Bassano del Grappa.

Entrance to bridge - Ponte degli Alpini

Bassano del Grappa is in the Vicenza province of the Veneto. It’s a very old city at the base of the Pre-Alp mountain area and runs along the Brenta River. One of the most recognizable symbols of the city is the Ponte degli Alpini, which is a wooden pontoon bridge designed by Andrea Palladio in 1569.  The Alpini are an elite mountain infantry group that was created to protect Italy’s northern mountain border.

...those are bullet holes folks...

Because of the geography of the city, the town has been on the forefront of many wars – it was hit hard during The French Revolution (Napoleon stayed in the city for several months), World War I (The Great War) and World War II - battle scars can still be seen today. As a result, the Ponte degli Alpini has been rebuilt several times, most recently after WW2, where the Alpine soldiers funded the rebuilding through private collections.  As an aside for literature buffs, Ernest Hemingway spent some time in Bassano during his stint as an ambulance driver in WW1. Several parts of his book “A Farewell to Arms” were set here.

Aside from its war-time history, Bassano del Grappa is also famous for something else – Grappa. Grappa is a highly alcoholic beverage made from distilling all the leftovers from making wine – leaves, stems, pulp, etc.  It’s usually drunk as a digestivo (after-dinner drink) and is also frequently added to espresso for a caffe’ corretto. A well-known Grappa maker is Nardini, who has a very cool space-agey distillery near town that offers a guided tour and samples, in addition to a shop on the Ponte degli Alpini which displays old distillery vats, equipment, etc. and sells the spirit.  Be warned, Grappa is very strong – you can “feel the burn” all the way down when you drink it J.  

Palazzo Sturm -
Museo Remondini

The town is divided by the Brenta River and as you cross the Alpini Bridge you get to some of the oldest parts of the city. It is lovely, and the best way to explore is just to get lost in the maze of streets. If you are a nerd like me, a trip to the Museo Remondini which is a print/paper museum housed in Palazzo Sturm is a must. For 200 years, the Remondini family were high-end publishers who printed on paper they made; they were typographers - printing at a time when books were expensive and precious. The museum exhibits items they published, the presses and letter blocks they used, wallpapers made, etc. It is EXTREMELY interesting for someone who loves all things associated with paper. Throughout the year they also hold hands-on workshops, which I will totally blog about when I get to go! (If you want to read more about the Remondini’s here’s a nice article). Also, housed in the Palazzo Sturm is a ceramic museum. The area is famous for ceramics and the museum showcases the locally made ceramics as well as majolica.

Monument on Mount Grappa

If you want to get out of the city and spend some time outdoors, take a trip to Mount Grappa. The countryside is beautiful, with cows grazing peacefully in the meadows, bells clanging as they walk. You’ll see small wooden buildings, Malga, dotting the landscape where local cheese is made and where, if you’re lucky, you’ll find someone on the side of the road selling that delicious cheese or a sign showing the way to a Malga that will sell it to you directly. At the top of the mountain there is a rifugio where you can take a rest, have a coffee and a snack. Also at the top is an army barracks with a small museum explaining the importance of that location during The Great War and a bunker that you can explore that goes deep into the mountain – wear a jacket, it gets cold! The most moving part of the mountain top is the monument that commemorates the thousands of men who died on the mountain – Italian, Austrian, etc. – all buried together in the ravages of war. Each niche of the monument represents an unnamed soldier that lost his life there.

I think I’ve hit the highlights, but there is much more to explore in this town. It’s a beautiful area of the Veneto and an ancient town full of historical and beautiful sites – definitely worth exploring if you like to get off the beaten path.

More later…

A Honey of a Day

Well, I’ve just completed my first summer in Italy. It was hot, but thankfully we have air-conditioning (and my Italian is not afraid to use it!). It was also much, much quieter as a mass exodus occurs when Italians flee the cities for umbrellas on a sandy beach or hikes in the cool fresh mountain air. We worked, but did enjoy the slower pace of our city. Now the vacationers are back and the city is bustling once again.

It seems that the end of summer opens up a whole new universe of activities, many (or most) of which are around food. If you know anything about Italians, you know that they are passionate about their food. Every region, every city, has their own unique local products and cuisine that they like to celebrate. So from now until the Christmas markets start up, there are a million and one events available, from tiny to huge - to explore the people/culture and see parts of the country (or region in my case) that you won’t find in the travel guides.

Festa del Miele, Bosco Chiesanuova

Local vendor

My first exprience of the season was going to the “Festa del Miele” (Honey Festival) in the town of Bosco Chiesanuova, which is in the province of Verona (region – Veneto).  Bosco Chiesanuova is a small town in the “Pre-Alp” mountain area known as Lessinia, in the northwest corner of the Verona province.  I was very excited about the event because 1). I love honey and 2). my husband S. was not familiar with the area – so it would be an adventure for us both.

Evidently, honey is one of the "prodotti tipici" of the area and while it was a small event, it was charming! Full of locals and not so crowded that you couldn’t take your time wandering around looking and tasting the different products. Before I met S. I was unaware that honey came in different flavors and forms (growing up, my honey came out of a bear shaped bottle) – the flavors on display varied from a mild light honey collected from bees who flock to wild flowers (millefiori) to the medium taste/colored one from dandelions (tarassaco) to a strong dark honey from chestnut trees (castagno). There were also blended honey mixtures like the two that we bought - strawberry jam/honey and a spread made from ground hazelnuts and honey (which almost has a chocolately taste).  There were candies, candles, and various creams/lotions all produced from local bee keepers.

Another perk is trying dishes that are particular to that area/town.

Local gnocchi

Evidently, the population of the Lessinia area is Cimbri, so their culture, food, even language are unique.  While we didn’t have time that day to explore the history of the Cimbri in depth, we did get to taste some of the food. Our lunch was a bowl of delicious “Gnocchi Sbatui” – what? I know, S. had never heard of it either, but let me tell you – it was DELICIOUS. Instead of the gnocchi being soft little pillows, they were flatter and irregularly shaped – kind of like a cross between standard gnocchi and spaetzle – made from smoked ricotta cheese (I think, my Italian is not great yet), tossed in melted butter, then sprinkled with breadcrumbs and parmesan cheese. YUM!!!  Talk about delicious! and it’s unlikely you would find it anywhere else in Italy. 

As we walked around we also saw that there was a film festival starting and while we didn’t stay to see any films, we did get to explore the theater and little book fair they were hosting. Italians are seriously creative and the event décor for the film festival was stylish and elegant - even a small local festival looks modern and cool. On our way out, we found a shop which sold Cimbri food and specialties so we decided to try some local cheese seasoned with chives and a pastry (can't remember the name) – which was a zabaglione-cream filled éclair type pastry. Both were very tasty, though only the cheese made it all the way home J

Before I close, let me just say that the Lessinia area is BEAUTIFUL. I fell in love with it. The mountains had wide expanses of green meadows and the towns were lovely – it is an area I look forward to further exploring and posting about.

More later…

The Tears of San Lorenzo…

Every year around August 10^th, Italians flee to higher ground and look to the stars. Why, you might ask? It is San Lorenzo’s day and it falls during the period of the Perseid Meter Shower – which means, a sky full of shooting stars and for Italians: The Tears of San Lorenzo.

Not growing up Catholic, I knew very little about San Lorenzo (Lawrence) or really any other saints. He is a beloved saint to Italians who was the “keeper of the treasures of the church” in the early 3^rd century and when asked by the Roman Prefect to present that treasure - what he presented were people – the sick, the poor, and the weary. You see, he had distributed the church’s treasure to the poor and needy instead of handing it over to the Romans. This enraged the Prefect, he arrested Lorenzo and according to legend, had him roasted alive on a grill over burning coals. The shooting stars during this meteor shower are said to represent the tears he shed while being roasted, thinking about the people he considered far more valuable “treasures” than the jewels and gold that had been in the coffers.

So in honor of this beloved saint, on August 10^th, Italians flee the city and find a spot to watch the astrological show. There are usually many star gazing events on this day – dinners and events that take place away from the city lights. We live near the beautiful Euganean Hills (Colli Euganei) so went up to a lovely spot called CasaMarina and with about a dozen or so other people, watched the sky for the shooting stars. This year, the peak of the shower is around the 11^th - 12^th so there weren’t too many shooting stars to see yet, though we did managed to see about 4 – which to be honest, is more than this city girl had ever seen in her lifetime. Luckily for us, it was a gorgeous night, with clear skies, a million stars, and a nice pleasant breeze. And while we will go back up around the peak to see more, it was awesome to connect to the culture by following this tradition that Italians have been doing for years.

So, if you find yourself in Italy mid-August around the 10^th, check your local papers and tourist offices – find out where to go for the best view of the sky, or see what events are planned that night. It’s a great way to experience local culture, you might even happen upon a small group of astronomers who will let you look through their telescope J  and who can pass up on a magical night full of shooting stars.  I’ve made my wishes, you should too.

More later…

Discovering Italy

Today we are going to visit Sabbioneta. It is located in Northern Italy on the plains between the Po and Oglio Rivers. In 2008, Sabbioneta was added as a UNESCO World Heritage site (along with Mantova).

Regione: Lombardia
Provincia: Mantova
City: Sabbioneta

Known as “The Ideal City,” Sabbioneta was the brain-child of one man, Vespasiano Gonzaga Colonna, who was from a branch of the famous Gonzaga family, Dukes of Mantova. This city was designed based on the theories of ideal city planning and built in the second half of the 16th Century. The design of the city represents the functional vision of the Renaissance period, which relied heavily on the use of proportions derived from observing Roman ruins. The rediscovery of ancient books, the theory of the Greek “Golden Ratio” and Neoplatonism also helped shape the Renaissance city planning. The outline of the city is shaped by fortifications in an irregular hexagon form with 6 bastions at the corners, much of which is well preserved.

In this city, Vincenzo Scamozzi was hired to construct the Teatro all’antica. Scamozzi was a student of Andrea Palladio, and one of the most important architects of his time. The Teatro all’antica is very important in the history of theater, as it was the first indoor theater built specifically that purpose and served as a model for the European theaters that followed. Sabbioneta also hosted an important Jewish community and Hebrew printing press, which you can still visit today. Other places of interest include the Palazzo del Giardino, Galleria della Antichi, Palazzo Ducale, various churches, the remaining bastions, Porta Vittoria – the most ancient entrance of the town - and the Sinagoga, (the synagogue).

Food. You can’t visit a city without experiencing the food. (plus it’s the best part of any trip!) Let’s start with my favorite part of the meal – dessert. Torta sbrisolona, literally “crumb cake” is a local specialty made with almonds. Traditionally dipped in wine, but coffee or hot chocolate work too. YUM. Pasta - Tortelli mantovani di Zucca. Tortelli are kind of like large ravioli, in this dish filled with a pumpkin/amaretti filling. (I haven’t tried it but next time I will and report back!) Wine – Lambrusco sabbionetano is a red wine using only local grapes grown in the area’s sandy soil.

It is a lovely city with a lot of interesting things to see. For me, part of the intrigue is the fact it was built just to embody the Renaissance thoughts of the time. If you are in the area, take the time to stop by. Sabbioneta will not disappoint you!

More later...

Something New

A strange phenomena seems to overtake people when they learn my husband is Italian. As in FROM Italy. All of the sudden, they come running to me looking for advice on where to go and what to do in Italy. It's flattering really, others thinking you an expert on something. HA little do they know.

That being said, I do LOVE to talk about Italy and have fallen in love with it since meeting my husband. It's a place I never gave much thought to until I met him. And now, I can really get passionate about the subject. Besides, I totally have an edge with my own live-in tour guide/historian who gives me a "local" point of view and knowledge. I am infinitely grateful for that! I haven't seen one-one-hundreth of the places in this beautiful country but I have been on the "roads less traveled" and I think, seen a very different Italy then many of my fellow travelers.

I've come to realize there are two types of travelers. Those who want to cram in as much as they can, hitting only the "hot spots" and spending little time in any one place. And those who want a slower paced trip, maybe seeing a few of the highlights but also spending time trying to experience the place and culture of the people. Both kinds of travelers are fine - it just depends on what you want to get out of the trip. I like to be the second kind of traveler though, preferring the side road trips to the small villages and towns that aren't overrun with tourists. It's with this in mind that I've decided to periodically post little featurettes about lesser known places in Italy which are interesting and worth a look if you have or care to take the time. (is "lesser known" correct grammar?)

Since I've rambled on and on, this first one will be short. It's a beautiful town at the beginnings of the Alps, not well known, no history of too much significance (that I know of) and utterly charming just as it is.

Region: Veneto (Northern Italy)
Province: Treviso
City: Asolo

Asolo is a ancient pre-Roman town known for its glorious sunsets and beautiful setting. It's a very "medieval" town with walls that date back to the 14th century. It has a slow, relaxing pace which is conducive to nice meandering walks thru narrow streets, under porticoes and arcades.

It was inhabited by and/or inspired such literary figures and artists as Robert Browning (his last volume of poems - Asolando - named for the town); his wife Elizabeth Barret Browning; Henry James; Ernest Hemingway; Igor Stravinsky (composer) and Carlo Scarpa (architect).

Things to do here:

• Climb the 1,000+ steps up to "La Rocca" (the ancient wall in the pic below)
• Visit the castle of Caterina Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus born of a powerful Venetian family and a well known historical woman
• See the Roman amphitheater ruins
• Meander thru the open markets and shops
  
• Sit at a cafe or in the square, sipping Prosecco (wine made in this region), soaking up the atmosphere, watching the day go by

It's not big, but it is enchanting and evocative of days gone by as well as the affluence of today.

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Oh I forgot. One interesting and a little bizarre fact - The Asolo Theater was taken apart by the Ringlings (of circus fame) and rebuilt in Sarasota, FL. Kind of along the same lines as the original London Bridge being in Arizona. huh interessttinngggggg

More later...