Mangiare Bene: Osteria Al Guerriero

Al Guerriero (The Warrior)

This weekend we spent the day in a beautiful hill town called Arqua Petrarca. I will post more about this town because it is absolutely stunning and one of the jewels of the Colli Euganei (Euganean Hills). Our main objective was to go to Frantoio Colli del Poeta, a local olive mill, to get some freshly pressed olive oil. If you've never had freshly pressed olive oil, you are missing out - there's nothing better! Drizzle it over some toasted bread, sprinkle with salt and enjoy. If you find yourself in Italy around November, look for local olive presses - they usually give tours and tastings. It's something not to be missed.

Anyway, after we did our tour and bought our bottle(s) it was lunch time.  I had read about this little osteria on the web and decided we should stop and eat.  Osteria Al Guerriero is a tiny place right off of the main square of Arqua Petrarca and looks exactly like you would expect it to. A crazy old stone building, beautiful wood ceilings, fireplace in the back, clean white walls, glass and brass gleaming, holding about 8 tables total. The owner and wait staff are extremely friendly and though they don't speak much English are happy to give you suggestions about the menu and/or wine selections. I can't stress enough how pleasant and nice the people were. They are so welcoming and make you feel right at home.

Osteria Al Guerriero entrance

We were lucky and got there at the right time because when we left, people were waiting for tables (did I tell you IT'S SMALL!). The menu is written on a chalkboard outside the door as it changes frequently. It is a small  space and serves typical Veneto cuisine - some of which I personally won't eat, such as horse (cavallo) and donkey (musso). We decided to have an antipasto course and a primi which was:

Antipasto - slice of a zucchini frittata, slice of a torta salata (kind of like a quiche) with veggies in it, some ribbons of zucchini which were slightly pickled, and a caponata. All super delicious and the caponata didn't have bell peppers in it (most of them do, and I hate bell peppers) so I was happy - all served with a basket of bread.

Just inside the door

Primi - I had a bowl of mushroom soup which was really good (though needed a touch more salt) with big chunks of wild mushrooms and potatoes, and a good amount of parmesan cheese/crostini. S. had the house specialty, an onion lasagna - you should totally try that, it was hard for me just to have one bite. The onions are sliced thin and sweet, mixed with bechamel sauce and layered among thin sheets of pasta and parmesan cheese.

We decided against a meat or dessert course but I'm sure the offerings were good. It was a cozy, warm place to enjoy good food and get out of the cold wind.

Arqua Petrarca is definitely a town worth a visit. I will post more about it one day, but remember the name, you'll want to see it. And while you are there, stop in at Osteria Al Guerriero for warm Italian hospitality, good food, and a very "Italian" experience.

Name: Osteria Al Guerriero
Where: Via Jacopo d'Arqua 2
             Arqua Petrarca
Province: Padova
Phone: 0429.718376

More later...

Cultural observation - menus

There's a strange phenomenon that I have come across in Italy that I either never experienced as a visitor or took notice of. When Italians go to a bar they don't seem to need to look at a menu - they just know what they want and order. What? How do you know what you want to order? How do you know what they have to offer? Where's the menu???

This has happened to me on two occasions recently. One, S and I were out with his mom at a mall doing a bit of shopping and decided to hit up one of the bars inside for something to drink.  Within seconds of sitting down, they ask me what I am going to have. S will have a coffee, his mom a gingerino... they look at me expectantly. I don't know what I want to drink - I want to see what they offer then make a decision. Seconds tick by.... the waitress comes back a second time... looking at me expectantly... I am looking at a menu of drinks but feel pressured to respond so - I order a Shakerato (coffee/milk/chilled and shaken) - it's not really what I wanted but everyone was looking at me like I was from Mars not knowing what I wanted immediately upon sitting. lol  Whatever, I shook it off and didn't take much notice.

Fast forward to two weekends ago when S & I went back to Venice to see the rest of La Biennale offerings and as it was around noon when we arrived we stopped at a nearby bar/restaurant for a quick lunch. Same thing happened. within seconds of sitting down, waiter is there, S starts to order - they look at me expectantly. I am a total blank. I have no idea what they have to offer. How can I know what to order if I don't know what they have? So, I asked for a menu, feeling a little embarrassed that I needed to. It was very short  - basically 3 or 4 variations of sandwiches and beverages.

This time I took notice and it led to a discussion not only with my husband but also with my Italian teacher.  In my experience, this is not something that happens in the USA, unless its a place you know well and frequent often. When you sit down, menus are always offered and you enjoy your water while you decide what you want. Here, not so much. Most bars have menus if you want to see them and you should not feel embarrassed like I did by asking to see it. However, forewarned is forearmed - at least now you'll know what to expect and not feel like a idiot for not being ready to order on-the-spot. It seems the safe bet in bars is a panino (could be pressed or cold) with either prosciutto crudo/cotto or a local salami  and some mild cheese or a toast which is white bread with those same ingredients warmed up. Maybe they add some tomato or arugula in there, but that has not been my experience.

Am I the only one who has experienced this? Is this some common knowledge that I somehow missed? Ah the cultural learning curve when living in a foreign country....

More later...

PS - this weekend we're planning to go to a Christmas Market up north if the weather holds. Can't want to share!

Random Tip: Don't be scared of gas station coffee

In Italy most gas stations still have attendants that pump your gas and a great majority have bars where you can get a coffee, a panino, etc. Don't be afraid of these. In America, there is no way I would eat at most gas stations unless it was something pre-packaged out of a vending machine. But here, you can have a quick cappuccino and brioche (croissant) while filling up your car :)

If you're on the highway - Autogrill = delicious sandwiches and some pretty good last minute gift shopping. We have been known to drive to an Autogrill just to get a panino. (As do other big rest stops along the highways but I can't remember the names).  Small stations around towns may not have the panini but the coffee hits the spot!

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OTBP: Terme Euganee

Did you know that for more than 2000 years, people have been visiting the Terme Euganee  to enjoy their thermal pools and spas? The Romans valued the area for its waters and would travel there for its healing benefits and relaxation. Living here, it seems the place is well-known in Italy, Germany, and Russia -  but not I think, to many others. I'm going to let you in on this well-kept (?) secret of Italy so you too can be in the know.

Here's the scoop:

Region: Veneto
Province: Padova
Main Spa Towns: Abano Terme, Montegrotto Terme, Battaglia Terme/Galzignano Terme

The area of the Terme Euganee is the largest thermal spa in Europe. Set at the base of the Euganean Hills, the two main spa towns - Abano Terme and Montegrotto Terme - and the much smaller ones of Battaglia Terme/Galzignano Terme are host to more than 100 hotels offering thermal pools and spa treatments. What makes this area special is the water and the mud.

Thermal spring 

The water is classified as "hyper-bromine-iodic" and reads at a constant temperature of 87F (31C). It begins as rain in the Alps (about 50 years ago), collects in uncontaminated basins at the foothills, runs through mineral -rich soil (for about 80km) and is warmed by the volcanic (not active) Euganean Hills. As a result, the water is hot and full of beneficial minerals that just make you feel good.

The hotels offer numerous thermal pools in which the water temperature is regulated (so its cool in the summer) and which have various hydro-therapy jet areas. Hot tubs, of course, little individual "barrels" on the sides of the pool which offer whole body water jet massages, water "beds' with jet massages, waterfalls and fountains for neck/back water massage, or just a large area to swim or take a water aerobics class. Most, if not all, pools are indoor/outdoor which is an added bonus in the winter. There's nothing like swimming in hot water on a cold afternoon.  In addition to the pools, the hotels have various spa treatments you can try, one of the most popular is the mud therapy, called Fangotherapy.  This mud is particular to the area, taken from two small "lakes" at the base of the hills and aged in big tanks with the thermal water.

Abano Terme pedestrian area

The towns themselves are really centered around the hotels and will not satisfy your need for that old, quaint Italian town. But, there are plenty of activities and good food to be had. Both Abano and Montegrotto have expansive pedestrian areas with great shops to peruse and bars to have a leisurely espresso. Hotels also loan out bicycles so you can take a ride in the hills or around the towns (they are very bike friendly). Though you can find fancy, cosmopolitan spas, if you're looking for that Zen type spa - this is not the place. The Terme Euganee has an atmosphere that is more like those old black & white movies where people took months off to recuperate at the spa hotels, strolling around the grounds in their luxurious robes - kind of a casual elegance if that makes sense.

Catajo  - Valsanzibio

A few other attractions:
- The Euganean Hills themselves (more on that in another post)
- Montegrotto - Ruins of a Roman spa that can be toured
- Battaglia - Castello del Catajo, hosts events and offers night time ghost tours
- Galzignano - Villa Valsanzibio Garden with its hedge maze
- Numerous Venetian villas, vineyards, etc.

Other info of note:

• The towns of Abano Terme and Montegrotto Terme are very close together and offer a tram that runs between them making stops at hotels, pedestrian areas, etc. - it is called the Puffetto (because its painted Smurf blue and in Italy, the Smurfs are called I Puffi)
• There is a train station in Montegrotto which is the Terme Euganee station; it is a major stop on the train routes
• These spa towns are about a 45-minute train ride from Venice and even closer from Padova
• All the hotels have room/spa packages but if you aren't staying in town, you can purchase day passes to the pools
• Always check for local events - this area has a ton of events in the towns as well as the hills

So now you know. You're welcome. lol

More later...

A controversial statement...

I am about to open a whole big can of worms and here it is... you CAN drink cappuccino after 10 am in Italy! My native Italian and I do it all the time, though I will clarify there are a few caveats:

1) It is still not cool to drink cappuccino with lunch or any meal aside from breakfast. The thought of drinking all that milk with non-sweet food will freak them out for sure.

2) While it is not frowned upon if you drink it any time of day as a "break" kind of snack, the other sweet spot for having a cappuccino is between 4 and 5 in the afternoon. It is well before aperitif time so it won't hinder your early evening spritz.

3) If it is after 10 am - have it as a stand-alone drink or with a cookie/pastry. see #1

Ok, whew, I feel better.

I realize this is the exact opposite advice from every other expat out there, but this is my Italy. True, every region is different but Times, they are a changing. And I have yet to hear a barista lecture my native Italian speaker when he orders it.

More later...

La Biennale, Venice

Model of the Encyclopedia Palace

The Venice Biennale is one of the most prestigious cultural institutions in the world. It began as an international art exhibition and has expanded to include festivals on art, music, cinema, theater, and architecture. Probably the two most famous exhibits linked to the Biennale are the Art and Architecture exhibitions, which alternate with each other so that they are bi-annual - usually, running from June to the end of November.

The cinema aspect of La Biennale takes place every year as the Venice Film Festival.  Music, theater and dance exhibitions are much smaller and don't last as long as the primary two. The festival also has kid and family friendly activities, so check the website for a calendar of events.

This year, 2013, is the International Art Exhibit - but what is it exactly you might ask? It is the most prestigious art exhibit in the world. You will find art from over 150 artists from 37 countries, as well as 88 national participants - meaning in addition to the individual artists,  88 countries have their own rooms or pavilions to display national offerings. It is spread in two main areas of Venice - the Giardini and the Arsenale.  The Giardini is in the eastern part of Venice and contains the main Central Pavilion showcasing individual artists as well as 29 national pavilions spread throughout the garden.  The Arsenale is a HUGE collection of buildings that date back to the 13th century where boats were built and armed for the military of the Serenissima. It was really the first assembly-type production center of the world. It's an interesting place to see in and of itself, and  now is used to host exhibits.

My Italian looks forward to this festival every year, whether art or architecture, he cannot wait to see what's on display. So, this past weekend we hopped on the train and headed to Venice to see what's what. There is so much to see that you can't do it all in one day; so the ticket you buy is good for two days - when you purchase the ticket make sure you get the right one, one is for 2 consecutive days, and another is for any 2 days be they consecutive or not.  We decided to see the Arsenale first as I had not seen the area since it was renovated.   It was very interesting - not only seeing the venue which consists of beautiful huge spaces, but also seeing the art. This year's theme is "Il Palazzo Enciclopedio" (The Encyclopedia Palace) which is based on an imaginary museum meant to hold all worldly knowledge. Marino Auriti had this dream and actually wanted to build a 136-story building in Washington that would take up over 16 blocks. While that building could not be built, the idea also correlates with the idea of "building" memory palaces, or memory maps, a technique used both in ancient times and today for remembering information. I don't know that much about art (especially modern art) or memory maps, but it did what art is supposed to do. It makes you think.

Sometimes the images are beautiful, sometimes they are scary. they are weird and creepy, maybe even smutty. you can get lost in the beauty of some detailed drawing and stare in awe at the talent of the artist. or you can avert your eyes from the creepy film clips of women with fluorescent makeup lounging in a disgustingly dirty space holding chickens. The art can be hauntingly beautiful or hauntingly grotesque (like the chickens. lol) but it all has the same purpose. It makes you feel and react. You don't always understand the underlying symbols or exactly what social point the artist is trying to make, but it does make you think. it makes you discuss possibilities, and it broadens your mind. We're only halfway through but I look forward to going back to see the exhibits in the Giardini. If you are going to Venice, you should try to catch La Biennale - it's really cool to share such an international experience.

Here are a few pics what we saw; click on my Instagram icon to see a few more.

More later...

Random Tips: Pizza

Learn from my mistakes.... :)

#1. Don't assume all pizzas come with a tomato sauce base. If you don't see the word "pomodoro" in the description, you're most likely going to get a white pizza. BTW - "pomodorini" refers to sliced cherry tomatoes. 

#2. "Peperoni" are bell peppers, not the spicy salami we get in the USA. If, like me, you despise any kind of bell peppers, you will not have a pleasant pizza experience. :) Look for "salamino picante" or some kind of similar wording if you're looking for the meat version.

#3. There are no doggie-bags. Most people get individual pizzas, though sharing is not frowned upon. Look around at the pizzas your fellow diners are eating. If it looks like more than you can eat, see if someone will share OR if they are willing to eat what you can't. It is not good form to ask for a box to take home leftovers. Italians just don't do that. But really... come on, the crust is uber-thin, toppings are not too abundant - are you sure you can't eat it all?

#4. No free refills or ice. If you're ordering a soda, water, lemonade, etc. don't expect it to contain ice. it will be very cold but ice is drinks is not "normal" here. (something about drinks being too cold & impeding digestion  i think? whatever) Also, there are no bottomless glasses , if you wan't a refill, be prepared to pay for it.


More later...

Mangare Bene: Pizza

To eat well.

Eating well is definitely a perk when visiting Italy and it’s hard to eat better than a pizza! For a thin crust lover like me, Italy is a treasure trove of deliciousness. The pizzerias are plentiful (in my area they are HUGE spaces!) with a million toppings and cheeses to choose from. It usually takes me a good 10-15 minutes to decide which pizza I want from the 2-inch thick menu.

The other night we were craving pizza but didn’t want to make it ourselves and our favorite “da asporto” (take-away/delivery) pizza place was closed for vacation, so we decided to go out.  This time we went to a pizzeria called Hugel Keller in Montegrotto Terme (near Padova, in Veneto). The name Hugel Keller basically means “Cellar of the Hills” in German (there are a lot of German tourist in this area) and the name is fitting - from the expanse of wood used in the décor to the list of beers it serves. The menu is extensive with a ton of pizza options and a very friendly staff.  There are small intimate tables and HUGE tables that seat about 20, both indoors and outdoors. The atmosphere is casual and cozy, and the pizza is delicious.

On this particular night, I decided to get a pizza with tomato sauce, mozzarella, Chiodini mushrooms (don’t know the American equivalent to these but they are good), and salamino picante, which is kind of like pepperoni in America. S. got a pizza with tomato sauce, mozzarella, porcini mushrooms and speck, which is an air-dried lightly smoked ham.  Both pizzas came out bubbling hot and oh my, were they good. The crust is crisp and flavorful, the salamino spicy, the cheese abundant but not too much so - Italians are wizards at what I like to call “abundant moderation”; they put just enough ingredients on/in things without going overboard. I have yet to learn that skill. Accompany all that with an ice cold coke (or beer if you prefer) and the sublime is attained. (sorry the lighting is not great in the pics below)

My pizza

S. Pizza

The pizzeria has been open for 20+ years and was one of the first restaurants I ever went to in Italy, way back when S and I were dating. I remember the place clearly as it had a big “Don’t Mess with Texas” sticker on the front door, which was highly amusing for this Texan. It was such a random find, who would’ve thought? Sadly, the sticker is gone now as they have expanded and remodeled over the years. BUT, one thing still remains – the pizza is cheesy, hot and outstanding!

Pizzeria Hugel Keller
Via Caposeda 24
Montegrotto Terme, Province of Padova
049 793482

More later…

OTBP: Bassano del Grappa (Veneto)

I’ve decided to start a series on the blog called “Off the Beaten Path”, or OTBP (cuz I’m lazy), where I showcase a lesser-known town mostly in the Veneto region. The big tourist attractions are wonderful and important to see, but Italy has so much more to offer if you can take the time to wander the less traditional areas. Today, let’s visit Bassano del Grappa.

Entrance to bridge - Ponte degli Alpini

Bassano del Grappa is in the Vicenza province of the Veneto. It’s a very old city at the base of the Pre-Alp mountain area and runs along the Brenta River. One of the most recognizable symbols of the city is the Ponte degli Alpini, which is a wooden pontoon bridge designed by Andrea Palladio in 1569.  The Alpini are an elite mountain infantry group that was created to protect Italy’s northern mountain border.

...those are bullet holes folks...

Because of the geography of the city, the town has been on the forefront of many wars – it was hit hard during The French Revolution (Napoleon stayed in the city for several months), World War I (The Great War) and World War II - battle scars can still be seen today. As a result, the Ponte degli Alpini has been rebuilt several times, most recently after WW2, where the Alpine soldiers funded the rebuilding through private collections.  As an aside for literature buffs, Ernest Hemingway spent some time in Bassano during his stint as an ambulance driver in WW1. Several parts of his book “A Farewell to Arms” were set here.

Aside from its war-time history, Bassano del Grappa is also famous for something else – Grappa. Grappa is a highly alcoholic beverage made from distilling all the leftovers from making wine – leaves, stems, pulp, etc.  It’s usually drunk as a digestivo (after-dinner drink) and is also frequently added to espresso for a caffe’ corretto. A well-known Grappa maker is Nardini, who has a very cool space-agey distillery near town that offers a guided tour and samples, in addition to a shop on the Ponte degli Alpini which displays old distillery vats, equipment, etc. and sells the spirit.  Be warned, Grappa is very strong – you can “feel the burn” all the way down when you drink it J.  

Palazzo Sturm -
Museo Remondini

The town is divided by the Brenta River and as you cross the Alpini Bridge you get to some of the oldest parts of the city. It is lovely, and the best way to explore is just to get lost in the maze of streets. If you are a nerd like me, a trip to the Museo Remondini which is a print/paper museum housed in Palazzo Sturm is a must. For 200 years, the Remondini family were high-end publishers who printed on paper they made; they were typographers - printing at a time when books were expensive and precious. The museum exhibits items they published, the presses and letter blocks they used, wallpapers made, etc. It is EXTREMELY interesting for someone who loves all things associated with paper. Throughout the year they also hold hands-on workshops, which I will totally blog about when I get to go! (If you want to read more about the Remondini’s here’s a nice article). Also, housed in the Palazzo Sturm is a ceramic museum. The area is famous for ceramics and the museum showcases the locally made ceramics as well as majolica.

Monument on Mount Grappa

If you want to get out of the city and spend some time outdoors, take a trip to Mount Grappa. The countryside is beautiful, with cows grazing peacefully in the meadows, bells clanging as they walk. You’ll see small wooden buildings, Malga, dotting the landscape where local cheese is made and where, if you’re lucky, you’ll find someone on the side of the road selling that delicious cheese or a sign showing the way to a Malga that will sell it to you directly. At the top of the mountain there is a rifugio where you can take a rest, have a coffee and a snack. Also at the top is an army barracks with a small museum explaining the importance of that location during The Great War and a bunker that you can explore that goes deep into the mountain – wear a jacket, it gets cold! The most moving part of the mountain top is the monument that commemorates the thousands of men who died on the mountain – Italian, Austrian, etc. – all buried together in the ravages of war. Each niche of the monument represents an unnamed soldier that lost his life there.

I think I’ve hit the highlights, but there is much more to explore in this town. It’s a beautiful area of the Veneto and an ancient town full of historical and beautiful sites – definitely worth exploring if you like to get off the beaten path.

More later…

A Honey of a Day

Well, I’ve just completed my first summer in Italy. It was hot, but thankfully we have air-conditioning (and my Italian is not afraid to use it!). It was also much, much quieter as a mass exodus occurs when Italians flee the cities for umbrellas on a sandy beach or hikes in the cool fresh mountain air. We worked, but did enjoy the slower pace of our city. Now the vacationers are back and the city is bustling once again.

It seems that the end of summer opens up a whole new universe of activities, many (or most) of which are around food. If you know anything about Italians, you know that they are passionate about their food. Every region, every city, has their own unique local products and cuisine that they like to celebrate. So from now until the Christmas markets start up, there are a million and one events available, from tiny to huge - to explore the people/culture and see parts of the country (or region in my case) that you won’t find in the travel guides.

Festa del Miele, Bosco Chiesanuova

Local vendor

My first exprience of the season was going to the “Festa del Miele” (Honey Festival) in the town of Bosco Chiesanuova, which is in the province of Verona (region – Veneto).  Bosco Chiesanuova is a small town in the “Pre-Alp” mountain area known as Lessinia, in the northwest corner of the Verona province.  I was very excited about the event because 1). I love honey and 2). my husband S. was not familiar with the area – so it would be an adventure for us both.

Evidently, honey is one of the "prodotti tipici" of the area and while it was a small event, it was charming! Full of locals and not so crowded that you couldn’t take your time wandering around looking and tasting the different products. Before I met S. I was unaware that honey came in different flavors and forms (growing up, my honey came out of a bear shaped bottle) – the flavors on display varied from a mild light honey collected from bees who flock to wild flowers (millefiori) to the medium taste/colored one from dandelions (tarassaco) to a strong dark honey from chestnut trees (castagno). There were also blended honey mixtures like the two that we bought - strawberry jam/honey and a spread made from ground hazelnuts and honey (which almost has a chocolately taste).  There were candies, candles, and various creams/lotions all produced from local bee keepers.

Another perk is trying dishes that are particular to that area/town.

Local gnocchi

Evidently, the population of the Lessinia area is Cimbri, so their culture, food, even language are unique.  While we didn’t have time that day to explore the history of the Cimbri in depth, we did get to taste some of the food. Our lunch was a bowl of delicious “Gnocchi Sbatui” – what? I know, S. had never heard of it either, but let me tell you – it was DELICIOUS. Instead of the gnocchi being soft little pillows, they were flatter and irregularly shaped – kind of like a cross between standard gnocchi and spaetzle – made from smoked ricotta cheese (I think, my Italian is not great yet), tossed in melted butter, then sprinkled with breadcrumbs and parmesan cheese. YUM!!!  Talk about delicious! and it’s unlikely you would find it anywhere else in Italy. 

As we walked around we also saw that there was a film festival starting and while we didn’t stay to see any films, we did get to explore the theater and little book fair they were hosting. Italians are seriously creative and the event décor for the film festival was stylish and elegant - even a small local festival looks modern and cool. On our way out, we found a shop which sold Cimbri food and specialties so we decided to try some local cheese seasoned with chives and a pastry (can't remember the name) – which was a zabaglione-cream filled éclair type pastry. Both were very tasty, though only the cheese made it all the way home J

Before I close, let me just say that the Lessinia area is BEAUTIFUL. I fell in love with it. The mountains had wide expanses of green meadows and the towns were lovely – it is an area I look forward to further exploring and posting about.

More later…

The Tears of San Lorenzo…

Every year around August 10^th, Italians flee to higher ground and look to the stars. Why, you might ask? It is San Lorenzo’s day and it falls during the period of the Perseid Meter Shower – which means, a sky full of shooting stars and for Italians: The Tears of San Lorenzo.

Not growing up Catholic, I knew very little about San Lorenzo (Lawrence) or really any other saints. He is a beloved saint to Italians who was the “keeper of the treasures of the church” in the early 3^rd century and when asked by the Roman Prefect to present that treasure - what he presented were people – the sick, the poor, and the weary. You see, he had distributed the church’s treasure to the poor and needy instead of handing it over to the Romans. This enraged the Prefect, he arrested Lorenzo and according to legend, had him roasted alive on a grill over burning coals. The shooting stars during this meteor shower are said to represent the tears he shed while being roasted, thinking about the people he considered far more valuable “treasures” than the jewels and gold that had been in the coffers.

So in honor of this beloved saint, on August 10^th, Italians flee the city and find a spot to watch the astrological show. There are usually many star gazing events on this day – dinners and events that take place away from the city lights. We live near the beautiful Euganean Hills (Colli Euganei) so went up to a lovely spot called CasaMarina and with about a dozen or so other people, watched the sky for the shooting stars. This year, the peak of the shower is around the 11^th - 12^th so there weren’t too many shooting stars to see yet, though we did managed to see about 4 – which to be honest, is more than this city girl had ever seen in her lifetime. Luckily for us, it was a gorgeous night, with clear skies, a million stars, and a nice pleasant breeze. And while we will go back up around the peak to see more, it was awesome to connect to the culture by following this tradition that Italians have been doing for years.

So, if you find yourself in Italy mid-August around the 10^th, check your local papers and tourist offices – find out where to go for the best view of the sky, or see what events are planned that night. It’s a great way to experience local culture, you might even happen upon a small group of astronomers who will let you look through their telescope J  and who can pass up on a magical night full of shooting stars.  I’ve made my wishes, you should too.

More later…

I'm Back!

After that short, nay LONG break, I am back to blogging!

However, now, this Texan is far away from home and trying to assimilate to life in Italy. Same husband. different town. new kitty. Bear with me while I make some changes/updates and get back into the blogging routine.

I hope you enjoy following along this new life ... it's going to be an adventure that is for sure!

More later...